Detangling the Strands of Identity: Exploring Hair Politics Among African American Women in the United States

Abstract

This dissertation explores the dynamic relationship between natural African hair and identity through physical and digital spaces African American women have created. Through a journey spanning the historical roots of hair texture transformation due to coerced liaisons during slavery to the present-day digital placemaking on platforms like YouTube, this work illuminates the complex dynamics of race, gender, beauty standards, and societal expectations as they intersect with women’s natural African hair. Chapter 1 establishes a foundational understanding of natural African hair within geographical research, using a postcolonial lens to address a scholarly gap. This gap emphasizes the significance of natural African hair among African American as a crucial aspect of African American culture and identity, proposing the development of an area of geographic inquiry situating natural African hair within the larger discussions of identity, intersectionality, and place. This opening chapter seeks to position natural African hair within academic discourse, advocating for its recognition as both a women's issue and a pivotal element of African American identity. Chapter 2 delves into the historical evolution of women’s natural African hair, tracing its trajectory through the lens of respectability politics through the Black Power Movement. It highlights how these movements have shaped the perception and representation of women’s natural African hair, transitioning from a symbol of resistance to an emblem of cultural pride and identity. This historical analysis underscores the role of cultural geography and Black feminist geography in exploring the empirical place of women’s natural African hair in the United States. Chapters 4 and 5 shift the focus to the digital realm, employing netnography to examine how African American women use YouTube as a place for cultural expression, community building, and resistance against mainstream beauty ideals. These chapters reveal how content creators challenge societal norms, promote self-acceptance, and educate on natural hair care. The exploration of digital placemaking highlights the importance of online communities in empowering individuals, shaping identity, and influencing broader beauty discourse and industry practices. The resurgence of the Natural Hair Movement (NHM), propelled by digital platforms and culminating in the enactment of the CROWN Act of 2022 or Create a Respectful and Open World for Natural Hair Act, represents a watershed moment in the struggle against hair discrimination. This legislation legally affirms the right to wear natural and protective hairstyles, marking a significant legislative victory in the journey of natural African hair from defiance to cultural celebration. This dissertation maps the complex relationship between African American women and their natural hair and highlights the transformative power of placemaking in affirming identity, fostering community, and challenging societal norms. The exploration of hair politics among African American women, as explored through geographical, historical, and digital lenses, opens avenues for future studies. Recommendations for further research include examining the global implications of natural African hair discourse, the evolving role of digital platforms in shaping cultural practices, and the impact of policies on the distribution of natural hair care resources. This work stands as a testament to the resilience, creativity, and agency of African American women in navigating the strands of their identity through the politics of hair.